The ever eloquent Mr Douglas Blyde invited myself along with a fine group of food bloggers to his Bacchus On A Knife Edge Supper Club at Andaz Studio in London’s Liverpool Street on a hot July evening.
In store for us was a journey through the Burgundy region of France, and more specifically a deep dive into four of the finest Chablis around accompanied by spectacular dishes by some of London’s savviest supper club owners.
We whet our appetites with the ‘Pas Si Petit’ Petit Chablis 2014 from La Chablisienne. Zesty in flavour, the citrus peel notes gave this wine an instant freshness. Best enjoyed as an aperitif or with seafood, it was no wonder that the Scandinavian-inspired canapés of fishcakes and remoulade, and curled cucumber filled with crab and avocado salad by Martina and Magdelena of NORDISH were a delightful pairing.
Next up was a British starter by Hana of Pickled Plates of summer vegetable salad with roasted radishes, brown butter dressing, pan-fried whiting and tempura samphire. Who knew roasted radishes was a thing?! These little unassuming radishes on the plate blew my mind.
The dish was paired with Alain Geoffroy’s 2014 richer Chablis hailing from a family-run estate of fifty hectares on the famous Kimmeridgian limestone soils of Chablis. The Geoffroy family have been on the site since 1850 and we learned that the familiy’s 1,500+ corkscrew museum is well worth a visit, particularly for those who are partial to a snigger at rather rude looking objects!
The lovely Rosie of A Little Lusciousness, wowed us with her stand out main course. Soy and miso-glazed pork chop on the bone with spring onion rice, Japanese raw slaw, rice vinegar and chilli drew on sights, smells and tastes of her recent adventure through Japan. I still dream of this dish to this day.
This was paired with Julien Brocard’s beautifully packaged Chablis, La Boissonneuse 2014 which had a lovely, firm, tense, structure with a tiny hint of oak owing to it being produced part in oak foudres, part in tank.
Our journey ended with the battle of the England vs. France unpasteurised cheeses alongside older and more powerful wines from Premier Cru and Grand Cru sites.
The cheese selection included:
Stichleton from Nottinghamshire vs. Bleu d’Auvergne
Baron Bigod from Bungay vs. Camembert from Normandy
Montgomery Cheddar from North Cadbury, Somerset vs. Comté
These were paired with the following wines:
Domaine William Fevre, Vaulorent, Premier Cru 2012
Jean Paul et Benoit Valmur Grand Cru 2012
Clotilde Davenne Les Preuses Grand Cru 2008
Domaine Laroche Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2007
It was the Domaine William Fevre that left the greatest impression on me for its powerful bouquet and citrus aromas. Rich and concentrated, the palate has remarkable freshness and was a perfect pairing for the milder cheese, and impressively holding its own against some of the stronger cheeses.
Warmed by the Chablis glow in our cheeks, we bid farewell to our dapper host Douglas and headed in the direction of home. With my education in Chablis complete, it seems only fair that I continue to spread the good word of Chablis to those near and far.
Thank you to Douglas Blyde and his team for hosting the Bacchus On A Knife Edge Supper Club at Andaz Studio in Liverpool Street, London.